Balvenie 17 Year Old Madeira Cask

Nose: It's as if we've gotten up in the morning, straight out of bed, and sat down at the breakfast table. Perhaps even outside, it's a summery breakfast in Madeira. There are some dates and gooseberries just to freshen up the senses, there's even a faint waft of coffee beans to open up the eyes a wee bit. We then move into something more substantial to start the day, some cereal covered in honey, and some pancakes drenched in maple syrup. Sprinkle on top of that some basil and mint, and it's quite a dish. We're not done there though, this is quite an abundant breakfast, more of the hotel buffet variety. So indeed we help ourselves to a side of ginger cake drizzled with white chocolate sauce, and some sweet buttery shortbread for good measure. The whole buffet is infused with the vanilla scented oak from the table, and there's even some red liquorice and bubblegum for the kids. Once we've finally made it through the whole platter, there's a little bit of eucalyptus just to refresh the senses again. This is a breakfast not to be rushed.

Taste: A creamy and medium bodied delivery, with some gingery spice to wake the late-sleeping palate into action. A good thing as you wouldn't want to sleep through the sweet vanilla sponge cake, coated in a molten oaky butter, and topped with freshly sliced bananas, raisins and gooseberries. Whereas the nose decided to end the breakfast with some refreshing eucalyptus (it had been quite a buffet), the palate decides to indulge slightly further and walk away from the table with a rich butterscotch sweet, in the style of a Werther's Original. One is tempted to just go back to bed after these kind of breakfasts. Perhaps if only just to have it again upon waking..

Finish: The finish has a rather more hurried breakfast, although no less delicious. The last to arrive, he has a few little leftover samples from both the nose and the palate's platters before making off to start the day. There's a hint of cold coffee that's been left, as well as some tangerine peel, some vanilla cream licked off of the damp oak table, and some toffee. There's a refreshing bay-leaf that seems to have come from somewhere, before we end the quick bite with a piece of liquorice and a burst of refreshing menthol.

Balance: If ever there was an indulgent dram to start the day with, then this is it. That said, as a child I remember the most fun thing to do was have breakfast at night, and perhaps that's the mantra to be had here. A morning dram for a summery day, and a heartwarming lift to have on a cold winter's night, dreaming of more comfortable climes. It in fact suits such a dual faculty, as it has all the flavour profile of a sweet and fruity summer dram, yet with the weight and warmth of a winter treat. This is a beautiful example of Madeira cask maturation done right, resulting in an intricate and richly balanced malt. A very fine piece of whisky making.

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