Johnnie Walker Gold Label Reserve
Something Golden
0 1081
Review by @talexander
- Nose19
- Taste23
- Finish18
- Balance21
- Overall81
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Distribution of ratings for this:
- Brand: Johnnie Walker
- Type: Scotch
- ABV: 40%
Tonight in Toronto, we are being hit with what is said to be the worst storm in decades. That seems pretty far fetched (I guess we'll see in the morning!), but regardless, I cancelled my plans to see a movie and am toasty warm inside, with this new Johnnie Walker expression. The Gold Label Reserve (with no age statement) replaces the Gold Label 18 Year Old. As you may know, the old 18 Year Old bottling is discontinued, as is the Green Label 15 Year Old blended malt (so if you have bottles of these put aside - hang onto them! Old and discontinued Johnnie Walkers are among the very few blends that increase in value over time). There is also a new 18 Year Old called "Platinum". I've had the old 18 Year Old (as well as the new Platinum) during a Johnnie Walker flight at Spirit House, and I remember liking it quite a bit, but I have no tasting notes to refer back to.
So why the change? Well, the most obvious answer is - they are running a little thin on older stocks - they have to use whiskies in this that are less than 18 years old. And with sales of older age-statement whiskies rapidly growing in Asian markets, they are being shipped there, leaving European and North American consumers with more NAS (No Age Statement) whiskies. This is not necessarily a bad thing - I'm not one to summarily equate older whiskies with quality - but it's an interesting (and sensible, from a financial standpoint) shift in distribution patterns. But enough of the business - back to the spirit!
The colour is a dark reddish gold. Surprisingly, the nose is a little more closed than you might expect. Caramel, honey, vanilla, crisp maltiness, and some clean grain. Minty notes as well. There are oranges and some other fruity notes. A whiff of smoke in the back, but only just. With water, a bit more smoke, with some sawdust. Simple but lovely.
In the mouth, this is incredibly silky smooth - absolutely beautiful mouthfeel. There is both brine and white pepper - this seems to have more Talisker influence than other Johnnie Walkers. But otherwise there is not a lot going on - it's very smooth, with many of the same fruits, caramels and vanillas that are on the nose. Very luxurious, however - incredibly easy to drink!
Very warming on the finish, but at the very end a little rough, with more sea salt and spice. It is nicely balanced but the taste and mouthfeel really do stand out. Again, I don't recall too much of how the old 18 Year Old tasted, though Jim Murray (who rates the new Reserve a 91.5) says the nose is heavier than it's predecessor. If memory serves, I preferred the old 18 Year Old but of course I cannot be sure. I would love to hear from anyone who has compared both - and also anyone who might have more insight into the reasons for this change in bottling.
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Great review. It's nice to see you are making lemonade out of lemons (hard weather). Do you remember all of those great old films where characters came in out of a snow storm to a nice warm fire and a glass of good scotch? I do. Even though I am only in my forties.
I do take exception with one small point you mention in your review, which is more of an after thought than a part of your review: Why is it "sensible" to ship older stock to Asia and leave westerners with no age statements? I don't see your logic. Are the Asian paying more for it? If not, then I think consumer loyalty should be rewarded, not betrayed, especially when the price of the Gold has remained the same (has it not?) despite the fact that it's now younger whiskies.
I am not at all happy with Scotland's distilleries sending their older whisky to Asia, even if it is blended single malts, etc. It's insulting to me, especially when I am charged the same. I'm not the sort of consumer to roll over easily when my brand loyalty is so easily shrugged off to new and emerging markets.
I just bought a bottle of Highland Park 18 that does not at all taste as it should. It makes me wonder if Highland Park is shipping the best bottles to Asia. At any rate, I have heard that Highland Park quality has been slipping. If they are indeed shipping their best product to Asia then to hell with them!
Thanks again for your well written review. It's refreshing to see that many Canadians like you do indeed know how to write well. So many Americans have grown lazy about the written word. It's a sad trend here that is definitely linked to a sabotaged educational system and a mass media that is also purposefully dumbing down the population with horrible grammar, usage, and vocabulary. George Orwell's vision for the future was not prophetic; it was well informed (from the inside, as it were). His father worked for the Ministry of Opium and his bread and butter was made writing propaganda for the BBC (British Brainwashing Corporation).
Well done, Talexander! Stay warm! You certainly have some great bottles to heat up your insides. I hope you also have a fire to brighten your house, or at least a good furnace.