Mortlach 10 Year Old 2012 - Artist Collective 6.6 (La Maison du Whisky)

Another Mortlach! This one bottled by LMDW's Artist Collective range, at 48% and with a 'sherry finish'. Must have been quite 'fresh' sherry casks, judging by the colour, which is a very attractive dark, reddish copper.

Bottle's been open two months with two thirds left.

Nose - I've found the nose to be quite the chameleon: tonight I find, hints of banana sweets (one that really comes and goes) and dark sherry notes. Putty, chalk and clay all in a complex tangle, and leather. Some sweeter spices that have been soaked in beer, hints of dark, sweet soy sauce and rich, charred fatty meats. It leans to a drier, savoury style (which I like) but with enough sweetness to offer a pleasing balance. I could easily nose this for hours ...

Taste - woah! Lots going on: those dark, sweet sherry notes hit first, followed by a complex array of pine resin, leather and tobacco. Going more sour (pickled apricot?) and dry as it develops with more savoury meat.

Finish - Short. Syrupy sherry notes (that build), tannins and a slight gritty texture emerges. Pleasant, but does fall a tad short here, unfortunately.

Finish apart, it's a belter but even that doesn't really spoil one's enjoyment. Another good example of why Mortlach appeals to me: it has obvious complexity and lots of mineral and savoury notes but these are balanced with sweet, spicy notes. A whisky you feel you should savour yet is very easy to quaff! A dangerous combination ...

As a last side note: I think I've just realised why Mortlach is such an evocative whisky for me. There's a note that is a always there and it makes me think 'whisky'. I know that sounds a bit obvious, and daft, but I think it's because of the Johnnie Walker link. Mortlach was always a prominent part of older JW's and, with that being a whisky I have been more familiar with than any other, I think my brain links those notes with my first, and most regular, whisky. The older Black Labels especially.

Find where to buy Mortlach whisky