Wolfburn Morven

The Wolfburn Morven is a lightly peated version of this Highlander from Thurso, that was launched in September 2017. It was the success of the small batch Wolfburn No 128 that inspired this one. Morven is now part of their core range. Morven, by the way, is the highest mountain in county Caithness, where Thurso can be found. The whisky is very pale.

The nose is surprisingly soft (especially after the No 128) and offers up a mild trace of smoke and some young apples and pears. Quite mineral (chalk!) and clearly young. That does not have to be a problem, but this Wolfburn is not as intriguing on the nose. A salty edge brings us to a wild coast. Salted caramel and pine nuts with some floral accents.

It is quite fresh and young on the palate. Lime juice with pepper, vanilla and baked apples. Pear drops. The peat is very clear, but on the side, so not really integrated. Barley sugars, toasted oak and again quite some floral elements, so it cannot hide its young age. It does not need to, surely, but this does taste very young indeed.

The finish is medium long with loads of ginger. It starts sweet, then turns bitter to finally fade in a big screen of smoke.

Morven is okay, but not more than that (the No 128, considered to be the precursor to this release, is much better). Around 60 EUR.