Auchroisk 24 Year Old 1989 Cadenhead’s

The lion’s share of what is produced at Auchroisk goes to the blenders. Justerini & Brooks is their biggest customer. If you want to try it as a single malt, you have to look for an independent release. Take Cadenhead’s for example, one of Scotland’s oldest bottlers. A few years ago they released this sherry butt matured Auchroisk in their Small Batch series.

Aromatic nose on black coffee, hazelnuts, caramel and… a bit of sulfur. Luckily that last part evaporates quickly, but it is unmistakable and gave me a bit of a scare. Then baking butter, plums and sniffing tobacco kick in. Peanuts, raisins and gravy appear. Pleasant, at least after the sulfur has left the glass.

Very piquant on the palate: curry, ginger, black pepper. Then some buttered fruit (dates, raisins and nuts) that give enough of a sweet note to keep things pleasant, although a salty note appears on the radar as well. Good strength. Apples, pears and barley sugar kick in. There is again an umami note that I cannot identify, but it does make this interesting.

The finish offers some grassy and nutty notes like we are used to from Auchroisk, but the salty and umami notes never go away completely. Woodsmoke at the death. Good surprise.

Not an easy Auchroisk, but definitely interesting. Not for everyone, I think, as it’s a difficult one. Around 120 EUR.

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