Bunnahabhain 1988 'Kirsch Gâteau' Wemyss

This is the only Bunnahabhain in this line-up that has a higher ABV than 46% (the strength at which Wemyss usually bottles their single casks). This 26 Year Old Bunna has 56% and clearly matured on an active sherry cask, revealed by it mahogany color.

The nose is wonderfully sweet and very dark, if you catch my meaning. A veritable sherry bomb: rum rainsins, Mon Chérie bonbons, candied ginger, Turkish Delight and apple fritters with syrup. Walnuts. A drop of balsamico. Bitter chocolate. Candied sugar. Reminds me of the better rum. Few if any maritime elements on the nose. This was probably produced from unpeated barley (if I remember correctly, Bunna only started using peated barley in the mid ‘90s of last century).

It is syrupy on the palate. And so tremendously sweet. Even sweeter than on the nose! And yet, underneath the dried and dark fruit simmers a salty edge. This is very good indeed! I get cloves, cinnamon and a red pepper. Touch of aniseed. Then the sweet fruit, with cherries in the lead, overpowers all that with easy, making this malt a dessert in and of itself.

The finish is quite long. And spicy. And sweet. And salty. Will this ever end?

What a grand Bunna! Reminds me a bit of the 24 Year Old Bunnahabhain 1988 from Berry Bros & Rudd, which I found equally wonderful. Thanks, Wim!

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