Glen Grant SMWS 9.88 25 YO "A Heart Starter"

It’s been almost 7 months since I’ve tackled a review from the dozens of samples and minis I’ve accumulated. With so many to choose from, some which I will likely never taste again, it’s hard to pick. Recent posts inspired me to crack open this one.

In May I had the honour of participating in a party to celebrate @TAlexander. Before and after the party, a few of us had what can only be described as an epic tasting (see: Epic Tastings). At the party, Igor Kossov (Igor of Scotch to his fans) brought 2 SMWS bottles for us to enjoy. The heel of the (excellent) Royal Brackla was left for and just reviewed by the birthday boy: connosr.com/royal-brackla-cherry-pie-moons…

The other, just as good, was given to @Paddockjudge to take home and he generously allowed me a 1 oz sample, which I review now. The information on the bottle (opened that evening) states it was distilled April 18, 1988, 6 days before it was legal for me to purchase alcohol in Ontario, and this refill ex-sherry butt slept for 25 years before being dumped into 542 bottles.

This expression is reviewed in my usual manner, allowing it to settle for 15-20 minutes after which I take my nosing and tasting notes, followed by the addition of a few drops of water, waiting, then nosing and tasting.

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Nose: 23/25

Sweet, fruity, warm stewed fruits, baking spices. Hint of sherry. Probably a lot more going on than I can tease out. Very complex. A great nose. Water adds to the intensity, bringing out heavy fruit syrup. (23.5/25 with water)

Taste: 20/25

On first sip, quite spirity (not so when I tried it in May). Very spicy. Caramel and vanilla (this is a sherry cask?). Then I get some fruit, but it remains bitter in the development. Water tones down some of the spirit nip, and the bitterness, and brings out sourness (not in a bad way).(21.5/25 with water)

Finish: 19/25

Long. Pepper, astringent, a little sour. Quite bitter. With water, much shorter. Still sour but a lot less bitter. (21/25 with water).

Balance: 20/25

The palate does not deliver the promise of the nose when taken neat. The bitterness is overwhelming. With water the balance improves a lot. And with time in the glass it becomes much more enjoyable. (22/25 with water)

Score: Neat - 82/100 With Water - 88/100

Global Score based on today and previous tasting: 89/100

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I admit to being surprised and taken aback when I first sipped this neat tonight. I don’t recall the taste being so harsh at the party. I think I would have scored it 90 or 91 at least. Of course I was with great company. I had several small pours that night, mostly with water (lemons floating in it I seem to recall).

Maybe it was the storage (1 oz bottle with a good seal). I’m saving the last 15 cc for another time, just to make sure it’s not my palate playing tricks on me today.

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